Since it was founded in 2010, Brooklyn, N.Y.-based Evil Twin Brewing has been known for a few different things. One of them is the fact that it is a so-called gypsy brewery: that is, the company does not have an actual physical brewery of its own, but contracts out with other breweries to produce its beers. Another fact about Evil Twin that is fairly well-known is that the founder, Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø, was born in Denmark and has an identical twin brother named Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, who just so happens to be the founder of Mikkeler. Finally, Evil Twin is known as a brewery that likes to take chances with the beers they produce, and so it is with the subject of today’s review.
Back in March, Evil Twin posted a label on its Instagram page showing a brand new beer named Mission Gose. The new brew turned out to be a 4 percent ABV gose1 that is brewed with salt, coriander and eucalyptus. Packaged in 22-ounce bottles, the gose is being brewed and bottled at Westbrook Brewing Co. in Mount Pleasant, S.C.2
The Evil Twin website has this to say about the beer:
Effortlessly cool, popping up in a cultish fashion and constantly on a tasty mission. This is Mission Gose: our take on an old-fashioned and slightly odd German beer style that is with good reason trending as the tastiest right now. It’s tart, salty, low in alcohol and probably the most refreshing beer you’ll ever have. Perhaps enjoy this beer in a restaurant with a mission near you. Wherever you are we made it stylishly good and exclusively well balanced just for you.
The Mission Gose pours a very light gold with very little head that disappears rapidly, leaving a wafer-thin white lacing behind. There is plenty of carbonation evident in the glass, and the aroma seems almost at odds with itself, with a combination of huge eucalyptus, sweet bananas, minerals, coriander and a touch of salt.
There were two things that were immediately evident when I took my first sip of the Mission Gose: the first is the extreme amount of salt on the palate, quite a bit more than most other goses that I have tried. The second thing I noticed was the almost overwhelming eucalyptus that is easily the dominant flavor on the finish, where it lingers long after you are done drinking. There are other flavors in the profile, mainly coriander, wheat, green apple, lime zest and biscuits, along with a very subtle floral hop that makes itself known every once in a while. The carbonation is a bit aggressive, but not enough to negatively affect the profile, and as a result the finish is quite dry.