Based near Cologne, Germany, Freigeist Bierkultur is actually an offshoot of Braustelle, a tiny brewpub located near the heart of the city. The now independent brewery’s name translates to free spirit, and concentrates on both reviving and updating Germany’s regional beer styles.

One of those beers is Geisterzug—or ghost train—Quince Gose. Using a recipe dating back “at least 600 years,” this version of a traditional gose was first released in 2013 and incorporates quince into the final beer, a fruit that is visually similar to a pear that grows in southwest Asia, more specifically, Turkey and Iran. This incarnation is based on the brewery’s Freigeist Geisterzug Gose (5.2 percent ABV) and there is another version that incorporates rhubarb that is appropriately named Freigeist Geisterzug Rhubarb Gose (5.2 percent ABV.)

Freigeist Bierkultur Geisterzug Quince Gose bottle
The Shelton Brother’s website has more information about the beer:

Based on Freigeist’s ancient spruced Gose recipe, Geisterzug Quince features all the complexity, funkiness, and body of the of the original but go one step further by adding tart & flavorful real fruit & vegetable during fermentation.  The resultant brews are incredibly lively, characterful, and thirst-quenching.

The Geisterzug Quince Gose pours a close-to-clear golden color and features a half-finger of off white head that sticks around for quite before leaving a thin lacing. There seems to be plenty of carbonation and aroma from the glass is a combination of lemongrass, orange rinds, salt, earth and tree sap.

Freigeist Bierkultur Geisterzug Quince Gose

It starts out with very dominant flavors of both earth and generic wood, along with a touch of green apples. While the profile is noticeably tart, it is nowhere close to what I would consider sour. There is definitely some obvious salt in the mix, but it is relegated mostly to the finish, while a huge yeast note combined with slight generic fruit is present on the palate. Carbonation is spritzy without being overwhelming, and the mouthfeel is creamy without being cloying.

 

Freigeist Bierkultur Geisterzug Quince Gose
BREWERY: Freigeist Bierkultur
LOCATION: Cologne, Germany
STYLE: Gose
ABV: 5.2 percent
IBU: n/a
PRICE: $7.50
RELEASE DATE: 2013
AVAILABLE IN: 500ml bottles
BEERS POURED: One
I have enjoyed quite a few different goses over the years, and this one is firmly in the middle of the pack. While the profile seems more authentic than most of the American-brewed versions, it also has an overt earthiness that threw the balance of the entire beer out of whack. In addition, while I did taste some slight fruity sweetness on the finish, it was so light that I came close to dismissing it altogether several times while drinking. An interesting beer to try if you are a fan of goses, but there are much better examples of the style out there.
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